It Is Always Recommended To Have The local Municipality Test All Well Water & Related Systems.
- One of the most common concerns involving a home’s water well is the water’s potability. Water that is not potable may pose serious health hazards.
- Have you recently evaluated the condition of your water well?
- The following information will help you do just that.
- Irrigation wells are for the purpose of watering lawns, washing cars, etc. This well is separate from the domestic water supply and the water should be potable, however, some municipalities are lax when it comes to enforcing regulations on irrigation wells.
- A community well is a private well that is shared by two or more properties. These wells are often found in remote developments. There may be a central water treatment plant very often regulated, tested and supervised by the municipality.
- Springs are a naturally flowing source of water. Their source is a water table that is higher than the surface exit point of the water. This is referred to as an artesian well. It is becoming rare to find a spring in use in a private residence, because they are easily contaminated from surface sources and not allowed in most municipalities. Spring water should be tested frequently by the municipality to ensure that it is potable.
Properties converted from wells to public water:
- When a property is converted to a public water source from a well, the well is sometimes retained for irrigation purposes. The well water must be physically separated (i.e. the pipe completely separated) from the domestic water supply. The water from the well should still be potable and tested periodically, in the event that it is inadvertently used for drinking water.
Only the surfaces that are contacted by the chlorine solution will be disinfected. The following recommendations will help to accomplish a thorough job.
- To avoid adding more contaminants to the well during the disinfection procedure, clean up the work area around the top of the well. Remove grease, mineral deposits, and other encrustation from accessible parts of the well interior and scrub these surfaces with a solution of 1/2 Cup of laundry bleach in 5 gallons of water. Be sure to wash pumping equipment and piping with the chlorine solution as it is lowered into the well.
- Newly constructed wells, or those that have been submerged by floodwaters, may contain substantial amounts of sediment that cloud the water and interfere with disinfection. Pump the well until the water clears before proceeding with shock chlorination.
- Mix the required amount of dry compound with a small amount of water and stir thoroughly to dissolve. Let the undissolved calcium carbonate particles settle. Pour off the clear chlorine solution and use this to disinfect the well.
- Place the required amount of chemical in a weighted cloth sack or in a section of perforated pipe that has been capped on both ends. Attach a rope and alternately raise and lower the chemical throughout the water-bearing portion of the well to dissolve the compound and distribute the disinfectant.
- Pumping will help to mix the disinfectant with the water standing in the well. Use a garden hose to recirculate the strong chlorine solution directly back into the well. Direct the return flow onto the pump piping and interior portions of the well casing that are above the water level.
- Open the faucets and hose bibs on each water line, one by one, and allow water to flow until a strong chlorine odor is detected. If a strong chlorine odor is not detectable, add more chlorine at the well. This will be necessary if the water contains substantial amounts of iron, hydrogen sulfide, or organic materials that deplete the chlorine in solution.
- Drain water heaters and bleed the air from pressure tanks so that chlorinated water can completely fill and sanitize them.
- Note: Water softeners, sand filters, and iron removal filters should be back-washed with the strongly chlorinated water. Do not chlorinate carbon or charcoal filters because this will deplete their capacity.
- It takes time for the chlorine to do a thorough job of disinfecting. Allow the chlorine to remain in the water system for at least 2 hours – longer, if possible.
- Before using the water supply, thoroughly flush the remaining chlorine from the system.
- Minimize the amount of chlorinated water that enters a septic tank by flushing the well, pressure tank, and other large volumes of disinfecting solution through outside hose bibs. The strongly chlorinated water may harm vegetation; dispose of it on ground where damage will be minimal. Pipes that serve indoor plumbing fixtures can be flushed after the well and pressure tank have been filled with fresh water.
The typical water softener is a mechanical appliance that’s plumbed into your home’s water supply system that helps eliminate minerals in the water that make it “hard”.
How does it work?
- All water softeners use the same operating principle: They trade the minerals for something else, in most cases sodium. Water passing through the mineral tank loses positively charged calcium and magnesium ions to negatively charged plastic beads. The brine tank holds a salt solution that flushes the mineral tank, replacing calcium and magnesium ions with sodium. A meter at the top of the mineral tank regulates recharging cycles. The valve assembly routes water flow for each phase of the regeneration cycle.
What does it do?
- Water comes from the ground. it picks up soluble bits of whatever it passes through. This basically means that the water contains minerals found in the earth. Of these, calcium and magnesium are of particular importance because they affect the water’s ability to function in our homes. These minerals make our water hard. One effect of hard water is that soaps and detergents lose some effectiveness. Instead of dissolving completely, soap combines with the minerals to form a coagulated soap curd. Because less soap is dissolved, more is required. And the sticky insoluble curd hangs around, it clings to the skin and may actually inhibit cleansing. Washed hair seems dull and lifeless and you still feel dirty after your bath or shower.
- In the laundry, things aren’t much better. The soap curd can work its way into your clothes as they’re being washed in your automatic washing machine. This can keep dirt trapped in the fibers, and it can stiffen and roughen the fabric, as well as cause allergic reactions.
- In addition to affecting the actual washing process, insoluble soap deposits leave spots on everything you wash-from your dishes to the family car-and a soap film will build up in your bath and shower.
- Another reason to be concerned about hard water is its effect on your plumbing system. Calcium and magnesium deposits can build up in pipes, reducing flow to taps and appliances.
- In water heaters, these minerals generate a scale buildup that reduces the efficiency and life of the heater.
What does it look like and what are the parts?
- Water softeners are usually comprised of two tanks, the mineral tank (full of small negatively-charged plastic beads) and the brine tank (full of salt crystals), and a control system that recharges or regenerates the system.
- Recharging the system typically involves three phases;
- A backwash phase that removes dirt from the mineral tank.
- A recharging phase that recharges the mineral tank with sodium from the brine solution displaces calcium and magnesium, which is then washed down the drain.
- The final phase rinses the mineral tank with fresh water and loads the brine tank so it’s ready for the next cycle.