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Termites:
 | Termites are social insects with a caste system that includes
reproductives, workers and soldiers. Each caste has a unique role in the
colony. The soldiers defend the colony against invaders (typically ants)
and the reproductives yield new colonies. What makes termites a concern
for humans is the worker caste, which bore through wood by digesting
cellulose material from structural timbers. |
| A colony begins when the primary reproductives, also called the king
and queen, mate and lay eggs. The eggs hatch into nymphs. The queen
determines which caste the nymph will belong to based on the needs of the
colony. She then secretes chemicals that transform the nymph into a
soldier, worker or reproductive. The termite's type/caste is determined by
the secreted chemical.
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| While there are thousands of different termite species, there are
three major species that are of economic significance in the United
States. |
Subterranean termites:
| Subterranean termites are the most common termite in the United
States. A mature colony has from 60K to 300K workers. The average colony
can consume a one foot length of 2x4 in 118 days. Subterranean termites
can enter a home through a crack or void as small as 1/32" in the slab or
wall, any lumber in contact with the soil, an earth filled stoop,
expansion joints, behind brick veneer, and through rigid foam insulation
in contact with the soil. |
| Subterranean termites have three primary needs: food, which to the
Subterranean termite is anything made of cellulose (i.e. wood, cardboard,
books); a constant source of moisture, and shelter which is provided to
the soil. |
| Subterranean termite workers are creamy white in appearance and the
most plentiful caste in the colony. They forage for food to feed
themselves and the rest of the colony. They create tunnels from mud
(commonly called shelter tubes) to move above ground. |
| Subterranean termite reproductives, commonly called swarmers, are the
winged members of the colony most commonly seen in the spring when they
mate. The entire purpose of the swarmer is to create a new colony. Termite
swarmers are often confused with a flying ant. Some common distinctions
between the two are: ants have different size wings and few veins whereas
a termite swarmer's wings are identical with numerous veins. Ant antennae
are elbowed, while termite swarmer antennae are straight. The midsection
of the ant is pinched whereas the termite midsection is not. |
| Subterranean termite soldiers protect the colony against attack. They
use their large heads to block holes in the colonies shelter tube and
their strong mandibles to crush their enemies. |
Formosan termites:
| Formosan termites are sometimes called "super termites" due to their
ability to cause significant damage in short periods of time. In fact,
they are the most destructive wood destroying insect due to their large
size and aggressive breeding habits. In fact, a Formosan termite colony
can consist of 350 thousand to 2 million workers. Formosan termites are
most commonly found in humid coastal and subtropical regions (i.e. Hawaii,
South Carolina, Georgia, Florida and Louisiana). |
Dry-wood termites:
| Dry-wood termites feed and nest in wood which has a relatively low
moisture content. Unlike Subterranean termites, they do not require any
contact with the soil. These termites are usually found in the humid
coastal and subtropical regions (i.e. California, Hawaii, Florida,
Arizona, South and North Carolina, New Mexico, Texas, Alabama,
Mississippi, Louisiana and Puerto Rico). They usually infest attic spaces
or exterior wood members exposed to them when they swarm in early spring
or summer. Typical evidence of dry-wood termites include damage, wings,
pellets (fecal matter), and entrance/exit holes. |
Subterranean Termite Treatment - Chemical Treatment:
| A chemical treatment is the most common treatment type available for
Subterranean termites. |
| The goal of a Subterranean termite chemical treatment is to establish
a continuous termiticide barrier between the termite colony (usually in
the soil) and wood in a building. This is done by placing termiticide in
the soil on both sides of all foundation elements to provide a barrier
preventing termites from entering the structure. Technicians trench the
soil and inject termiticide beneath it at 16-inch intervals. They also
drill into hollow masonry block foundations and inject termiticide into
the block voids. This creates a protective barrier around the property,
which is generally good for five years. |
Subterranean Termite Treatment - Baiting Systems:
| In-Ground Baiting Systems are fast becoming a popular method of
treatment for subterranean termites. A subterranean termite baiting system
involves placement of cellulose (wood material) bait stations at strategic
locations around the perimeter of the home. Worker termites - who
constantly forage for wood to feed their colony - locate the cellulose
bait stations and leave special scent trails to summon their mates to the
food source. The cellulose material in the bait station is than replaced
with a chemical inhibitor which retards the molting process in termites,
preventing them from growing. The carrier termites then bring the chemical
back to the colony and - if everything goes well - spread the inhibitor
throughout the remainder of the colony. As a result of the growth
inhibitor, the carrier and the rest of the colony will die. |
Dry-wood Termites Treatment - Fumigation:
| If the inspector suspects that a Dry-wood termite infestation extends
into concealed areas, they may suggest a tent fumigation. A fumigation
involves placing the entire structure in gas-tight tarpaulin (which
resembles a circus tent), releasing the gas inside the seal, and aerating
the fumigant. Before fumigation can occur, the homeowner must removal all
plants and animals, remove or place food items inside special protective
bags, and stay out of the house for a three- day period. While the tent
fumigation is more expensive and inconvenient for the homeowner, if done
properly, it ensure the elimination all detected and undetected termites
in the structure. |
| If the inspector suspects that the Dry-wood termite infestation is
isolated to a local area, they may suggest using borates. This involves
drilling small hole in which borates are injected or applied (using spray
or foam applications) to the surface at the area of infestation. |
| Another local treatment involves wood injection. This method involves
drilling holes into which termiticide is injected. This chemical will
remain active in the wood after treatment to thwart resurging colonies. |
| If a Dry-wood termite infestation is isolated to a wood member which
can be easily replaced or detached, the inspector may simply suggest wood
replaced. |
| If there is any indication that there are galleries leading to
adjacent wood members, treatment or removal of those wood members is
required. |
Carpenter Ants:
| The carpenter ant (Camponotus spp.) hollows out wood to create nests
called galleries. Though they do not eat the wood, the boring activity can
lead to structural damage in wood components. The by-product of the boring
is called frass and looks similar to sawdust or pencil shavings. Frass is
the most common evidence of carpenter ant infestation. |
| Carpenter ants are similar in appearance to the common pavement ants,
but can be distinguished by certain physical characteristics. The
carpenter ant has a single pinched node between the abdomen and the
thorax, while most ants have a dual node. In addition, the profile of the
section from the abdomen to the head is almost perfectly rounded.
Carpenter ants are especially common in the Northwest and the Pacific
Northwest.
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Treatment:
| The most thorough and effective way to treat a carpenter ant
infestation is to locate the nest (colony) or nests and directly apply an
appropriate pesticide. This may involve drilling into wood member and
using pressure injection. It may also include drilling into the wall voids
and on top of window sills and applying a dust-like pesticide. Another
strategy involves laying out poison baits for the worker ants to take back
to the nest(s). To prevent infestation, barrier treatments and removal of
conducive conditions is recommended. |
Carpenter Bees:
| The carpenter bee (Xylocopa spp.) hollows out wood to create nests
called galleries. The carpenter bee does not live in the nest but stays in
the nest to rear their young. The nest opening is a perfect half-inch
circle. The nest itself may extend anywhere from four (4) inches (for a
new nest with one bee) to 10 feet (for older nests with several bees).
Carpenter bees generally nest in weathered or unpainted wood. They lay
their eggs in the nest and seal them with a chewed wood pulp plug. The
bees then emerge from the hole in the Spring. |
Treatment:
| To properly eliminate a carpenter bee infestation, the proper
chemicals or dust must be injected directly into the exit hole. The
opening is then sealed by gluing a half-inch dowel into the opening and
painting the surface. To prevent an infestation of carpenter bees, it is
important to paint or stain any bare wood surfaces of Once the chemical or
dust is introduced into the exit hole, the hole must be glued with a 1/2
inch dowel and painted over. To prevent an infestation of Carpenter bees,
it is important to paint or stain a home's bare wood surfaces. |
Powder Post Beetles:
| This term is used in the broad sense but it encompasses three
closely-related families: the Lyctid or true powder post beetle, the
Bostricid or false powder post beetle and the Anobiid or Deathwatch
beetle. |
| The beetle cycle begins when an adult lays an egg. The eggs hatch into
larva. The larva eat the wood and digest it. The larva turns into pupa.
Finally, the adult emerges to mate and the cycle repeats. Wood destroying
beetles are usually transported in building materials, furniture and other
wood products. The most common evidence of a powder post beetle
infestation is a talcum powder-like substance know as frass. This frass
falls from exit holes made by the beetles. An active infestation will
reveal brilliant white frass (a color similar to that of sawdust from a
freshly cut Christmas tree). Yellow to brown frass indicates an inactive
or dormant infestation. |
| If the inspector suspects that a powder post beetle infestation
extends into concealed areas or is at numerous locations, they may suggest
a tent fumigation. |
| A fumigation involves placing the entire structure in gas-tight
tarpalulin, releasing the gas inside the seal, and aerating the fumigant
after. A fumigation for beetles is extremely costly since, unlike Drywood
termite fumigations, ten times the amount of the fumigant must be used to
ensure the beetle is eliminated. Before fumigation can occur, the
homeowner must remove all plants and animals, remove or place food items
inside special protective bags, and stay out of the house a three-day
period. Again, while tent fumigations are more expensive and inconvenient
for the homeowner, if done properly, they ensure the elimination all
detected and undetected beetles. |
Treatment - Borate:
| If the inspector suspects that the powder post beetle infestation is
confined to a local area, they may suggest using borates. This involves
drilling small hole in which borates are injected or applied (using spray
or foam applications) to the surface at the area of infestation.
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Treatment - Wood Injection:
| Another local treatment involves wood injection. This method involves
drilling holes which an termiticide is injected. This chemical will remain
active in the wood after treatment to thwart resurgent colonies.
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Treatment - Wood Replacement:
| If a powder post beetle infestation is isolated to a wood member which
can be easily replaced or detached, the inspector may simply suggest wood
replacement. |
| If there is any indication that there are galleries leading to
adjacent wood members, treatment or removal of those wood members is
required.
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Wood Destroying Fungus:
| Fungus (fungi, plural) is a plant that lacks chlorophyll. Unable to
synthesize their own food, they feed off of cells in the wood. The fungi
secrete enzymes that break down to wood (into usable food) and can
significantly reduce the strength of the wood. It is estimated that
Wood-Decay Fungi (found throughout the United States) causes as much, if
not more, damage to homes as termites. While the average moisture content
of wood is between 13-17 percent, fungus generally occurs when the wood
moisture content exceeds 20 percent, coupled with mild temperatures. |
| Non-Decay Fungi. Sap-staining fungi leave wood with a bluish,
bluish-black, gray or brown stain color. Surface-staining fungi (mold and
mildew) leave the surface of the wood with a powdery or fuzzy appearance
that varies in color. Though sap and surface-staining fungi do not
significantly reduce the structural strength of wood, they are considered
precursors to wood-decay fungi. White pocket rot produces small pits in
wood and is only active in living trees.
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| Wood-Decay Fungi. White rot leaves wood with a bleached appearance and
a spongy and stringy texture. Brown rot leaves wood with a dark brown,
checkered appearance and a brittle texture. Note: wood that exhibits brown
rot has lost its structural integrity and is easily crumbled.
Water-conducing fungus or "dry rot" produces a decay similar to brown rot,
but may vary in color.
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Treatment:
| Proper identification of the type of fungus is essential to developing
the proper control measures. Surface-staining fungi can be cleaned with a
50/50 mixture of bleach and water, using a brush or power washer to remove
the fungi from the surface of the wood.
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| For other fungi, the application of Borate wood preservative is a
simple and effective control method. Borate is highly toxic to all wood
destroying organisms and, unlike other wood preservatives, they are
non-volatile, odorless, and are less toxic than table salt. They do not
discolor the wood, are non-corrosive, environmentally safe and known to be
effective in controlling more than 45 different species of wood decaying
fungus. They are also effective in controlling beetles, termites,
carpenter ants and a host of other insects.
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| If the fungi have actually damaged the wood, the corrective action
will depend on the severity of the damage. The most effective and common
method for moderate to severe damage is to replace the area of damaged
wood. However, if only a small area is affected, borates and epoxies are a
cost-effective alternative. The rotten wood is excavated and treated with
borates. A liquid epoxy consolidant is then applied to harden the soft
wood and, once cured, the epoxy wood filler is packed into the void. The
surface can then be sanded flush and repainted.
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| Finally, all reasonable attempts should be made to remove the
conditions that allow the growth of fungi, especially moisture. This may
include installing a vapor barrier in the crawl spaces, sump pump and
dehumidifier in the basement, providing proper drainage of rain and
surface water away from the structure, removing sources of water
penetration into the structure, and properly ventilating affected areas.
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Household Pests:
| Household pests include a variety of crawling insects, arachnids and
rodents that enter the home to feed, nest or breed. Some of these pests
are wood destroying insects or organisms that can damage the home. Some
present a health hazard by spreading bacteria or allergens in our homes.
Others may be a health hazard because they bite or sting. Still others are
nothing more than a nuisance. The National Pest Control Association says
the 10 most common household pests are cockroaches, mice, rats, termites,
ants and carpenter ants, fleas, dog ticks, spiders, and silverfish.
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