 | One of the most
common concerns involving a home’s water well is the water’s potability.
Water that is not potable may pose serious health hazards. Have you recently
evaluated the condition of your water well? The following information will
help you do just that. |
Irrigation wells:
| Irrigation wells are for the purpose of watering lawns, washing cars,
etc. This well is separate from the domestic water supply and the water
should be potable, however, some municipalities are lax when it comes to
enforcing regulations on irrigation wells. |
Community wells:
| A community well is a private well that is shared by two or more
properties. These wells are often found in remote developments. There may
be a central water treatment plant very often regulated, tested and
supervised by the municipality. |
Springs:
| Springs are a naturally flowing source of water. Their source is a
water table that is higher than the surface exit point of the water. This
is referred to as an artesian well. It is becoming rare to find a spring
in use in a private residence; because they are easily contaminated from
surface sources and not allowed in most municipalities. Spring water
should be tested frequently by the municipality to ensure that it is
potable. |
Properties converted from wells to public water:
| When a property is converted to a public water source from a well, the
well is sometimes retained for irrigation purposes. The well water must be
physically separated (i.e. the pipe completely separated) from the
domestic water supply. The water from the well should still be potable and
tested periodically, in the event that it is inadvertently used for
drinking water. |
Types of Wells:
Driven:
| A driven well is a pipe with a special point that is driven into the
ground to a source of water. Driven wells are normally less than 25 feet
deep, although they can be as deep as 100 feet. Driven wells are limited
to areas of sandy, rock-free soils that allow the pipe to be driven
without significant interference. |
Drilled:
| Drilled wells are the most common and are either shallow (25 feet or
less) or deep (more than 25 feet). Well pumps typically cannot lift water
higher than 34’, and because air may be introduced by leaks or design, and
the altitude of the pumping site above sea level creates limits, shallow
wells are limited to 25’. When wells are deeper than 25’, a venturi is a
necessary part of the ejector and lift pipe. Some of the water from the
pump is diverted through the venturi, which creates a low-pressure zone.
The well water that enters the low-pressure zone and the velocity of the
water coming through the venturi nozzle pushes it upward, where it is
captured and lifted by suction to the pressure/storage tank. The presence
of the venturi gives the pump the ability to lift water hundreds of feet. |
| If a jet pump (not a submersible pump) is present in the basement or
crawl space, and it has one pipe, it is a shallow well. If there are two
pipes, it has a venturi that will allow it to draw the water up from
deeper wells. Submersible pumps are located in the well, near the bottom
of the drilling. |
Dug:
| Dug wells are open bodies of water, normally 2 to 3 feet in diameter.
Dug wells are not allowed any more due to their vulnerability to pollution
from surface sources. |
Well Operability and Equipment:
| Check for corrosion at the plumbing fittings and the pressure/storage
tank. The galvanized steel tanks may develop rust warts or growths on the
tank when they are failing. This rust is corrosion developing from inside
the tank. |
| Check the pressure gauge. The low limit should be 20 to 35 PSI, and
the high limit should be 40 to 60 PSI. The delta should be about 20 PSI.
Turn the water on at a laundry tub or sink and note the pressure when the
pump comes on and when it goes off. These pressures will be the low and
high limits, respectively. |
| Measure the time it takes for the pump to go from the low limit to the
high limit with no water running in the house. Depending on the size of
the pressure/storage tank and the pump, it should take 1 to 2 minutes. If
it less than 45 seconds, there is probably less air in the tank than there
should be, however, it could also be the size of the tank and/or the pump.
This is called short cycling, and the cycles may take as little as a few
seconds. A well contractor with a mobile air compressor will have to
figure out what is causing the short cycling, and add air or correct other
problems, as may be necessary. If the cycles take too long, and there is
no water running in the house, the problem may be more severe. It could be
a break in the water supply line from the pump to the house, a failing
pump, broken pump impellers or mud and debris clogging the pump screen. It
may also mean that the well is drawing down or that there is an inadequate
water supply or significantly reduced head pressure. These problems will
require the services of a knowledgeable well contractor. |
Non-Intrusive Evaluation:
| The quantity of water needed in the house varies widely, particularly
with the number of occupants. The most demanding time for water is in the
morning, prior to the business day. It is assumed that each occupant of
the property may flush the toilet twice, using 1 to 5 gallons per flush,
depending on their toilets. Each occupant of the property may typically
take a shower, requiring 10 to 20 gallons of water. A load of wash may be
done, which may require approximately 15 to 18 gallons. And a load of
dishes may be washed, which may require approximately 15 to 20 gallons of
water. Therefore, prior to leaving the house on a business day, the
average family of 5 may use 100 and 150 gallons of water. This is the
amount of water that we attempt to draw from the well within about 2
hours. The totals for the day may typically average 250 to 300 gallons,
depending on cooking and eating habits, the number of people and the
amount of time that is spent in the home. |
| To measure quantity of water, you must determine that enough water is
coming from the well within 30 minutes. Note: This is subject to all the
variables outlined above, and should only be considered as an indicator.
The water requirement could be 4 to 8 gallons per minute, depending on the
municipality. If the amount of water coming from the well is not adequate,
it may be necessary to install a cistern or an additional storage/pressure
tank. Some authorities may not allow you to run large amounts of water for
extended periods of time because there may be some situations where you
could draw down the well and/or overload an on-site waste system. |
Common Water Quality Defects:
| Water not potable. (1 ppm of coliform bacteria is not acceptable) |
| Iron above acceptable levels |
| Manganese above acceptable levels |
| Copper above acceptable levels |
| Nitrate and/or nitrites above acceptable levels |
| PH below or above acceptable levels |
| Odor above acceptable levels |
| Turbidity above acceptable levels |
| Chlorine in well |
| Distance between septic system improper (<100 ft.) |
| VOC’s required in some areas |
| If the Water is Contaminated, Then What? |
Well Contamination:
Shock-Chlorinating:
| Sanitary water system components (well, pump, pipes, tanks and
treatment equipment) are as essential to a hygienic drinking water supply
as clean cooking and serving utensils are to wholesome food. |
| A properly designed well and water distribution system incorporates
sanitary features that keep contamination from entering under normal
operating conditions, but there are occasions when contaminants will get
in. During well construction, or when pumps and other water system
components are being installed, soil, grease's joint sealing compound and
other foreign materials that carry bacteria, adhere to interior surfaces
of the equipment. Furthermore, most water system repairs must usually be
accomplished in trenches, well pits, or other locations where
opportunities for contamination are numerous. |
| To combat disease-causing bacteria and viruses that remain in a water
system following construction, repair, or maintenance, some means of
disinfecting the interior surfaces is necessary. Shock chlorination is a
convenient method for doing this through the use of a concentrated
chlorine solution. |
| Shock chlorination is occasionally confused with the type of
chlorination provided in public water systems, but the two processes
differ substantially. Public water supply disinfection is accomplished
with a continuous application of small amounts of chlorine. The major
purpose is to disinfect the water itself, and water from community water
supplies commonly contains less than 1 part-per-million (PPM) of chlorine.
Shock chlorination of private water supplies, however, uses chlorine
concentrations ranging from 50 to 200 PPM, and the primary purpose is to
sanitize wells, piping, and other equipment that the water passes through
rather than disinfect the water going through the system. |
| Shock chlorination in private water supplies is not a continuous
process and it will not protect a defective well or plumbing system from
continuous entry of contaminants. Only water systems that are protected
against further contamination will benefit from shock chlorination. Poorly
designed or deteriorated water system components that allow contamination
to enter should be repaired or replaced, then shock chlorinated. |
| Control of nuisance organisms that can live in a water system is
another use for shock chlorination. Iron bacteria, for example, are
commonly found in water supply equipment. This type of bacteria is not
known to cause disease, but it thrives in some iron-bearing waters and
forms large amounts of rust-colored slime that clogs wells, pipelines, and
water filters. Iron bacteria growth is extremely difficult to eliminate
from a water system, but it can be controlled with periodic shock
chlorination treatments. |
Disinfecting:
Only the surfaces that are contacted by the chlorine solution will be
disinfected. The following recommendations will help to accomplish a
thorough job.
| To avoid adding more contaminants to the well during the disinfection
procedure, clean up the work area around the top of the well. Remove
grease, mineral deposits, and other encrustation from accessible parts of
the well interior and scrub these surfaces with a solution of 1/2 Cup of
laundry bleach in 5 gallons of water. Be sure to wash pumping equipment
and piping with the chlorine solution as it is lowered into the well. |
| Newly constructed wells, or those that have been submerged by
floodwaters, may contain substantial amounts of sediment that cloud the
water and interfere with disinfection. Pump the well until the water
clears before proceeding with shock chlorination. |
| Mix the required amount of dry compound with a small amount of water
and stir thoroughly to dissolve. Let the undissolved calcium carbonate
particles settle. Pour off the clear chlorine solution and use this to
disinfect the well. |
| Place the required amount of chemical in a weighted cloth sack or in a
section of perforated pipe that has been capped on both ends. Attach a
rope and alternately raise and lower the chemical throughout the
water-bearing portion of the well to dissolve the compound and distribute
the disinfectant. |
| Pumping will help to mix the disinfectant with the water standing in
the well. Use a garden hose to recirculate the strong chlorine solution
directly back into the well. Direct the return flow onto the pump piping
and interior portions of the well casing that are above the water level. |
| Open the faucets and hose bibs on each water line, one by one, and
allow water to flow until a strong chlorine odor is detected. If a strong
chlorine odor is not detectable, add more chlorine at the well. This will
be necessary if the water contains substantial amounts of iron, hydrogen
sulfide, or organic materials that deplete the chlorine in solution. |
| Drain water heaters and bleed the air from pressure tanks so that
chlorinated water can completely fill and sanitize them. |
| Note: Water softeners, sand filters, and iron removal filters should
be backwashed with the strongly chlorinated water. Do not chlorinate
carbon or charcoal filters because this will deplete their capacity. |
| It takes time for the chlorine to do a thorough job of disinfecting.
Allow the chlorine to remain in the water system for at least 2 hours -
longer, if possible. |
| Before using the water supply, thoroughly flush the remaining chlorine
from the system. |
| Minimize the amount of chlorinated water that enters a septic tank by
flushing the well, pressure tank, and other large volumes of disinfecting
solution through outside hose bibs. The strongly chlorinated water may
harm vegetation; dispose of it on ground where damage will be minimal.
Pipes that serve indoor plumbing fixtures can be flushed after the well
and pressure tank have been filled with fresh water. |
Precautions:
| All concentrated chlorine solutions are corrosive, and care should be
taken to avoid splashing them onto skin or into eyes. Rubber gloves,
goggles, and protective aprons are recommended when handling chlorine
solutions. Skin areas contacted by the disinfecting solution should be
flushed immediately with clean water. |
| Never mix chlorine solutions with compounds containing acids or
ammonia to improve their cleansing ability because toxic gases will form. |
| Both liquid and powdered chlorine sources lose strength with time.
Exposure to heat, light, and moisture (if the compound is powdered)
accelerates decomposition of the materials. Accordingly, buy fresh
chemicals in small quantities to avoid storage losses. Always read and
follow the manufacturer's recommendations for handling and storing
powdered and liquid chlorine compounds. |
| Strongly chlorinated water may damage the elastic air-water separator
or air bladder used in some pressure tanks. Check the manufacturer's
recommendations if your pressure tank is equipped with this feature. |
Retest:
| Follow-up testing for bacteria is an essential part of the shock
chlorination procedure. Wait a few days after shock chlorinating before
collecting the water sample. If bacteria are still entering the water
system, it may take several days for detectable amounts to show up in a
water sample. |
| Do not drink the water until results from the water test indicate the
supply is safe. It's a good idea to retest a few weeks later to be sure
that all points of entry for contamination have been blocked. Bacterial
contamination is most likely to enter a well during wet weather when the
water table is high and excess surface water seeps into the ground. A well
that shows little or no signs of bacterial contamination during dry
weather may be heavily contaminated during wet seasons. |
| If a water system continues to show bacterial contamination following
shock chlorination, it may be necessary to hire a plumber or well driller
to help locate and repair places where contamination enters. |
What is a water softener?
| The typical water softener is a mechanical appliance that's plumbed
into your home's water supply system that helps eliminate minerals in the
water that make it “hard”. |
How does it work?
| All water softeners use the same operating principle: They trade the
minerals for something else, in most cases sodium. Water passing through
the mineral tank loses positively charged calcium and magnesium ions to
negatively charged plastic beads. The brine tank holds a salt solution
that flushes the mineral tank, replacing calcium and magnesium ions with
sodium. A meter at the top of the mineral tank regulates recharging
cycles. The valve assembly routes water flow for each phase of the
regeneration cycle. |
What does it do?
| Water comes from the ground. it picks up soluble bits of whatever it
passes through. This basically means that the water contains minerals
found in the earth. Of these, calcium and magnesium are of particular
importance because they affect the water's ability to function in our
homes. These minerals make our water hard.
One effect of hard water is that soaps and detergents lose some
effectiveness. Instead of dissolving completely, soap combines with the
minerals to form a coagulated soap curd. Because less soap is dissolved,
more is required. And the sticky insoluble curd hangs around-it clings to
the skin and may actually inhibit cleansing. Washed hair seems dull and
lifeless and you still feel dirty after your bath or shower.
In the laundry, things aren't much better. The soap curd can work its way
into your clothes as they're being washed in your automatic washing
machine. This can keep dirt trapped in the fibers, and it can stiffen and
roughen the fabric, as well as cause allergic reactions.
In addition to affecting the actual washing process, insoluble soap
deposits leave spots on everything you wash-from your dishes to the family
car-and a soap film will build up in your bath and shower. |
| Another reason to be concerned about hard water is its effect on your
plumbing system. Calcium and magnesium deposits can build up in pipes,
reducing flow to taps and appliances. In water heaters, these minerals
generate a scale buildup that reduces the efficiency and life of the
heater. |
What does it look like and what are the parts?
| Water softeners are usually comprised of two tanks, the mineral tank
(full of small negatively-charged plastic beads) and the brine tank (full
of salt crystals), and a control system that recharges or regenerates the
system. |
| Recharging the system typically involves three phases; A backwash
phase that removes dirt from the mineral tank. A recharging phase that
recharges the mineral tank with sodium from the brine solution displaces
calcium and magnesium, which is then washed down the drain. The final
phase rinses the mineral tank with fresh water and loads the brine tank so
it's ready for the next cycle. |
Storage Holding / Pressure Tanks:
Standard:
| tank without a bladder or diaphragm - This storage tank is normally
made of galvanized metal. It has a pressure gauge and valve on the top for
pumping air into the tank. Compressed air in the tank is what creates
pressure in the system. Air is compressible, but water is not. The life
expectancy of a galvanized water storage/pressure tank is approximately 18
to 22 years. These tanks are generally found in older systems; very few
are discovered in modern housing. |
Diaphragm Tank:
| tank with a bladder or diaphragm - A diaphragm tank is a
storage/pressure tank that functions the same way that a standard tank
functions, however, it has a diaphragm or bladder that keeps the water and
air separated. This is the most common type of tank. |
Cistern:
| A cistern is a storage tank. It is typically used to hold
rainwater for irrigation, hold water situations where the well does not
produce water fast enough, or hold water that is trucked in, probably due
to poor water conditions or supply at the site. Generally, cisterns are
not covered; this creates concerns for insects, debris and dust that may
affect the water. |
Well Head:
| The well casing is normally a 6-inch steel or PVC pipe with a cap that
is sealed. The head for all modern wells should be 18 inches above grade
to prevent the infiltration of surface water. The well is drilled 5' to
10' into solid bedrock, then the casing is grouted with a slurry of 5%
bentonite and 95% cement. These procedures are necessary to provide a
proper base, stabilize the well and keep water from entering the casing
from the bottom. Lightweight steel pipe is 13 pounds per foot; medium
weight pipe is 15 pounds per foot; and heavy weight steel pipe is 19
pounds per foot. The PVC piping is a thick-walled pipe, designed for
wells. State or local authorities dictate the piping that may be used.
|
Pumps:
Submersible:
| The pump is located in the casing, well below the water table. |
Jet:
| Normally located in the basement, this type of pump is a centrifugal
pump with an electric motor. |
Pressure:
| Water pressure varies widely. On a well system, the normal pressure is
20 to 60 psi, with a delta pressure of approximately 20 psi. The delta is
determined by the pressure difference between when the pump comes on and
when it is switched off again. City water pressure is normally 40 to 60
psi. In mountainous terrains, such as Pittsburgh, you may frequently find
pressure-reducing valves on municipal water, as the pressures in these
locales can get exceedingly high.
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