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Your
plumbing should need only minimum maintenance if cared for properly. If any
problems do develop, attend to them immediately to prevent larger, more
costly problems. |
Supply Lines:
The three most common materials used for supply lines are galvanized
steel, copper, and plastic.
Galvanized Steel:
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Galvanized steel piping was used
almost exclusively prior to 1950. The life expectancy, depending on several
conditions, is typically forty to sixty years.
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| One of the most common problems with this material is corrosion. Rust may
accumulate on the inside of the pipe, resulting in poor water pressure and
flow. |
| Eventually the pipe will rust through, usually at the joints first,
resulting in leakage. One of the oddities with steel piping as it corrodes,
is that it may rust through in one spot and begin to leak. The rust may then
form a scab over the leak and seal itself. This generally means that the
piping is near the end of its useful life. |
Copper:
| Copper piping has been used residentially since about 1950
and almost exclusively since the mid 1950’s. The life expectancy of copper
piping is indefinite unless unusual water conditions or manufacturing
defects are present. |
Plastic:
| Most plastic pipe applications have been made by the
do-it-yourselfer. The pipe is easy to work with and connections can be made
without soldering. |
| The two most common types of plastic used are: polybutylene (PB) and
chlorinated poly vinyl chloride (CPCV). PB piping uses press-on fittings and
CPCV uses solvent welded or glued fittings. |
| Polybutylene piping was removed from the Uniform Plumbing Code in the
U.S. in 1989 as an approved water distribution material. In some instances,
fitting failure has occurred possibly resulting from faulty installation. In
some cases, the piping manufacturer will repair or replace the PB piping at
no cost to the homeowner. |
Drain Piping:
The three most common materials used for drain piping are
cast iron, copper, and plastic.
Cast iron:
| Cast Iron was used prior to the 1950’s. Cast iron piping generally
fails in one of two ways. The pipe can rust through, typically in a pin hole
pattern or you may notice splitting along the seams (especially
horizontally). The life expectancy is fifty years and up. |
Copper:
| drain piping was used primarily from the mid 40’s until the
mid 1960’s. In residential use it has become rare. This is due to the fact
that plastic piping is much less expensive to purchase and install. The life
expectancy is indefinite. |
Plastic:
| Plastic waste piping has been used almost exclusively since the
1960’s. The piping is inexpensive, easy to work with and, very durable. |
(DWV) Drainage, Waste & Vent System:
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Unlike the supply system, which uses pressure to deliver water throughout
the house, the drainage system depends on gravity to take wastewater away.
All of the water used in the sinks, toilets, and tubs throughout the house
must flow down to the sewer or septic line in the basement via a network
of increasingly larger drainpipes. This system is called the drainage,
waste, and vent (DWV) system.
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Larger pipes allow water to drain quickly. The larger the diameter of the
drain pipe, the more water it can handle. In fact, drainpipes are even
larger than supply pipes. But its not just because they handle water:
Waste disposal also requires space for air and gas buildup, too.
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Venting the System:
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Venting gives gas pressure a better way to escape your drainage system
than backing up into the home. Each appliance has a drainpipe connected to
a still larger drainpipe that eventually descends to the basement. The
same original drainpipe is also connected to a vent pipe that runs into a
still larger vent pipe extending through the roof of your house. These
roof vents (some homes have more than one) provide an alternate route for
the escaping gas within your drainage system.
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Vents also allow air to enter the system for without air the wastewater
would not be able to flow out. Think of a gas can or juice can: The liquid
inside cannot flow out unless a vent hole is opened to allow air in to
keep it flowing. Your home vent system works by the same principle. For
wastewater to move freely through the network of drainpipes and out to the
sewer, there must be a way for air to get into the system. Otherwise, the
drains would empty slowly, if at all. In fact, adequate venting is so
important that a partially blocked roof vent can slow your drains to a
standstill.
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Pipe material choices:
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DWV
pipes are not under great pressure and can be made from a variety of
materials. In newer homes, the entire DWV system is typically constructed
of either ABS (Acrylonitrile-Butadiene Styrene) or PVC (polyvinyl
Chloride) plastic pipes. Since it is durable, cheaper than metal, and
often easier to work with, plastic is vastly superior for most DWV
applications. Always consult local codes before making any additions to
your DWV system.
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Water moving through a drainpipe also displaces air that's already in the
pipe. If the air has no place to go it will cause a pressure bubble inside
the pipe. This pressure buildup will stop additional drain water from
entering the pipe. Venting the pipe allows the pressure from the displaced
air to escape, again keeping it all flowing.
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DWV System Design:
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There is no such thing as a horizontal waste pipe. All waste pipes must
run vertically or have enough downward pitch or slope to allow gravity to
do its job and pull the water quickly through the pipe. Drainpipes cannot
snake around obstacles within walls, either. Twists and turns can cause
slowdowns or backups within the system, so be sure there is enough room
for drainpipes to drop on their way to the waste stack or main drainpipe.
After all, the last thing you need is a drainage system that doesn't
drain.
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The Waste Stack:
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The
large, collecting drainpipe inside the wall slopes horizontally downward
and joins a larger, vertically descending drainpipe called a waste stack.
The waste stack receives drainage pipes from other appliances as it
descends through the interior wall space. When it reaches the basement,
the waste stack connects to the main sewer or septic line that exits the
house through the foundation.
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The Roof Vent:
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The
other end of the waste stack ascends vertically through the roof of the
house, becoming a roof vent. At each point in the wall where an appliance
is joined to a larger drain line, it is also connected to a vent pipe.
These secondary vent pipes, formed at the junctions where appliances run
into the collecting drains, are connected to the roof vent. Since every
appliance must be vented, there may be two or more roof vents in a given
house.
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Vent
pipes from lower floors must join the roof vent above the upper floor
appliances to avoid backups in the system. Unlike drainpipes, vent pipes
can run horizontally since gas-air pressure is drawn upward by the lower
atmospheric pressure outside the house.
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Traps and Sewer Gas:
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Waste deposited into the sewer line decomposes, producing noxious gases.
Traps prevent these gases from backing up and being released into your
house. A trap typically is a U-shaped bend of pipe that traps a small
amount of water inside it every time you use the appliance. The trapped
water acts as a barrier between your house and the sewer gas inside the
drain network. Every plumbed appliance in your home is required by law to
have a trap. Sink traps are easy to spot; toilet traps are contained
within the toilet, and are less obvious. Although these traps are very
effective barriers, the sewer gas pressure building up inside the drains
would eventually overcome them if the system were not vented. |
Shutoff
Valves:
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Shutoff valves control water flow to a particular appliance. Shutoff valves
can usually be found under sinks and toilets and behind clothes washers,
water heaters and other appliances. Locating the main water shutoff valve is
discussed on page 2-1.
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Periodically examine each shutoff valve for signs of leaks. Look for water,
green crust or water stains on the valve, surrounding pipes and floor
underneath. If the valve leaks, you can tighten the valve fittings with a
wrench. Do not over tighten. If the leak continues, call a professional
plumber.
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Drains:
| Each plumbing fixture in your house has a drain trap. This U-shaped piece of
pipe is designed to provide a water barrier that prevents air-borne bacteria
and the odor of sewer gas from entering the house. Any fixture that is used
infrequently should be turned on at regular intervals to replace evaporating
water and insure that the barrier remains intact. Because of their shape,
traps are also the source of most clogging problems.
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Clogged drains are discussed in the Plumbing Emergencies section on page
2-5. Common sense can prevent your drains from clogging. Don’t pour grease
down a drain. Keep your drains free of hair and other debris. Do not use lye
or its derivatives. It can damage your plastic drain pipe.
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“Flush” your drains once a month to prevent residual grease and soap from
clogging drains. Run hot water through the drain. Add three tablespoons of
baking soda. Add a little more hot water. Let stand for 15 minutes, then
“flush” again by running more hot water.
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Plumbing
Fixtures:
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A
variety of commercial cleaners are available for cleaning sinks, showers,
tubs, toilets and other plumbing fixtures. Follow the manufacturer’s
directions when using a cleaner. Regular cleaning will prevent soap scum
buildup and discoloration. Don’t use abrasive cleaners.
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Periodically examine each sink and other plumbing fixture for signs of water
leaking from the fixture, the water supply or the drain. Look for water,
green crust or water stains on pipes, fittings and the floor underneath. You
can tighten leaky plumbing fittings with a wrench. Do not over tighten. If
the leak continues, call a professional plumber.
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Toilets:
| Overflowing or clogged toilets are discussed in the Plumbing Emergencies
section on page 2-6. Never flush hair, grease, lint, diapers, sanitary
products or rubbish down the toilet. These wastes can stop up toilets and
sewer lines.
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Inspect the base of the toilet and the water supply line for leaks. If the
water chamber appears to leak, the water may only be condensation forming on
the outside of the tank. If you think that the toilet is leaking or if you
are having other problems, consult a plumbing repair book or call a
professional plumber.
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| A
loose toilet can weaken the seal between the toilet and the drain pipe.
Water can then leak along the toilet’s base and damage the floor. Test the
toilet mounts by grabbing the toilet with your hands and try to rock it from
side to side. If the toilet moves, tighten the nuts holding the toilet to
the floor on either side of the base. Tighten until snug, then test again.
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Faucets:
| Many sinks today have modern, washer-less faucets. The standard compression
faucets with a washer are also common. If a faucet leaks or malfunctions,
consult a plumbing repair book or call a professional plumber.
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The only maintenance your faucets should require is to clean the aerators.
Aerators add air to the water as it leaves the faucet, eliminating splashing
and reducing water usage. To clean an aerator, unscrew it from the mouth of
the faucet, remove any deposits, remove and rinse the washers and screens,
replace in their original order and put back on the faucet. |
Water Heaters:
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There are basically three types of water heaters: gas,
electric, and oil. All three tanks operate in a similar manner. When hot
water is removed from the tank, cold water enters which activates the
thermostat. The water is then heated to a pre-set temperature, usually 140
degrees. To save energy and avoid burns consider setting the temperature
between 115 and 120 degrees.
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| Water heaters should be of adequate size to satisfy the needs of the
home. A family of four will often find that a forty gallon system is
adequate. |
| Many experts in the industry recommend draining a gallon or two of water
from the tank monthly to avoid sludge build-up. (Check your manufacturers
recommendations.) |
Gas Piping:
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Any gas leak is a life threatening situation. If you smell
gas, all occupants should leave the home immediately and contact the gas
company or call 911 from a neighbor’s house. Do not operate switches, door-bells,
telephones or anything else that may cause a spark.
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Sump Pump:
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The sump pump is used to lift storm or drain tile water
from a low point in the home to a discharge point that extends away from the
building.
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| The sump pump is electric, therefore susceptible to interruptions or
failure. Since power failures often occur during heavy storms this could be
a problem. A water driven or battery back-up system should be considered.
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Noisy
Pipes:
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Noisy pipes can be more than an annoyance, vibrations accompanying the noise
can loosen plumbing fittings and cause leaks. Noise can be caused by a
number of reasons, including worn washers, loose parts in a faucet and steam
in hot water pipes.
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You should repair noisy pipes promptly. If you cannot locate the cause of
the noise or cannot make the repair yourself, call a professional plumber.
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Caulking:
| Caulking is used to seal around bathtubs, sinks and showers. It is normal
for caulking to dry out or crack after several years. Periodically inspect
caulking around sinks, showers and tubs. Look for signs of deterioration.
Remove the old caulking and replace with fresh caulk. This is a simple
do-it-yourself project. If you do not have a caulking gun, caulking material
can be bought in applicator tubes or in disposable caulking guns.
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Outdoor
Plumbing:
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To
prevent frozen pipes, drain water from outdoor faucets and pipes, insulate
and wrap exposed pipes and remove and store outdoor hoses. |
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